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When Paul Clammer was initially commissioned to write a Haiti edition of the famous Bradt Travel Guides, things were looking somewhat promising, but not altogether bright for Haiti tourism. It was the early 2010s, and Haiti had just gone through a catastrophic earthquake. A few years later, not only are there more than one bright spots on the Haiti tourism horizon, but Clammer is writing an updated version of his book.

Kreyolicious: Ooh, I see that the ​new cover features a lady in traditional costume, whereas the first edition showed a young boy at the beach, with a canoe on deck. Does this mean that the new edition will be more culture-focused?

We had various photographers pitch images to us for the cover, and this was the cover that got picked from the shortlist! It’s a discussion between the editors, the marketing people and myself. The main idea for the cover of the first edition was to announce that despite certain media preconceptions, Haiti is a really beautiful country that happens to be in the Caribbean – a really beautiful part of the planet. So let’s highlight that! This time around the book is established, and maybe the idea of travel to Haiti is a little more established too, so we can approach it more like a regular travel guide.

As to having a more of a focus on culture, I’ve tried to continue what we started in the last edition and make the content deeper. The book’s bibliography has a lot more Haitian writers in it this time around, and we’ve got shout-outs to lots of things like Plezikanaval and Carel Pedre to why kremas is such a popular drink. Hopefully all those little things add up to make the book stronger.

Above: Paul Clammer in Haiti.

Kreyolicious: What are some of the feedback that you received for the first?

I think a lot of people were surprised just to see it to be honest! Even when I was researching the first edition I don’t think a lot of people I met thought the book was going to be a real thing. So getting any feedback at all was nice! But I think the best reaction has been that the book has somehow been part of the narrative that Haiti can be a genuine travel destination now. We hear a lot from the Ministry of Tourism of course, but having a guidebook publisher come along completely independently is a bit of extra recognition. A number of times I was at a hotel or guesthouse and the manager told me that they’d had bookings because people have read about them in my book. Being able to direct readers to new places or experiences is my favourite part of writing guidebooks. If people go and have a good time, support those businesses and put money into the local economy, that’s a pretty virtuous travel circle as far as I’m concerned.

Above: The author tries on a carnival mask in Jacmel. Photo Credit: Paul Clammer.

Kreyolicious: I remember the last time I interviewed you, if I remember correctly, you said that Jacmel is your fave spot in Haiti. Is that still the case? Or has another area in Haiti stolen that honor?

Jacmel remains somewhere very close to my heart! What I particularly loved about my visit this time was seeing how it’s developed in the last few years in terms of facilities for visitors. The new boardwalk along the seafront is a delight, there are all the mosaics dotted around the town, the tourist information office, new restaurants and bars. And it was great to see a new local tour company, Experience Jacmel running really professional trips – everything from food tours to getting to paint your own papier-maché carnival mask.

Above: The cover of the upcoming guide, second edition. Image Credit: Bradt Travel Guide.

Kreyolicious: Your first foray into Haiti when you were writing a dual guide to Haiti and the Dominican Republic. And then, of course there was the first edition of your book. Was your approach be different this time around…in terms of information gathering?

No. It’s more about building on the existing book really. I was pretty pleased with what I’d written when it first came out, so this trip was about testing in the field – what stands up, what needs to change. For example, the book had quite a lot of historic sites listed in the north, especially near Cap-Haitien. But when I was there a for the update I realized that they were strewn throughout the text in a way that made them quite hard to find. So I’ve reorganised it all completely and added a new map that highlights them all to make it easier to access. So if people are in Cap they’ll know that you can make some pretty interesting day trips and not just go and see the Citadelle and think, well – what now?

Kreyolicious: You’re based in Britain. Do you think that Londoners are keen to Haiti at this point, the way they were during what historians called Haiti’s golden age?

I’m going to be honest – Haiti isn’t really on the UK’s radar all that much, although Haiti did open an embassy in London a couple of years ago. However, the British travel market has long been pretty good at recognizing new destinations, and there are several companies there selling Haiti as a cultural or adventure travel destination. I actually ran into a tour group while I was in Port-au-Prince. They were having a great time but were actually starting and finishing their trip in Santo Domingo, because flight connections from the UK to Haiti usually involve an awkward layover in Miami or New York.

Kreyolicious: For sure…Out of all the touristic developments that have taken place in the past year, which do you feel is the most conducive to Haiti tourism.

I’m going to take my hat off to the Ministry of Tourism here. They’ve done a great job marketing Haiti. But from the perspective of someone who has worked in the travel industry a long time, what impressed me most was that this hasn’t just been a cute line for social media, they’re trying to follow it up with real action on the ground. The travel industry in Haiti is professionalizing in a way that’s very heartening to see. Obviously, there are the international brands like Marriott, Best Western and Decameron who have decided that Haiti is somewhere worth investing, but in terms of logistics and infrastructure there have been some big concrete improvements.

This also filters down to the roots. I mentioned the tour company I spent time with in Jacmel. At the end of my time with them, they gave me a questionnaire and as well as asking me what I liked. They asked what they got wrong and how they could change that. They weren’t content just to rest on their laurels, they wanted to improve their business so they could grow it. Another example is in Dondon. It’s not a town a lot of people go to, but they’ve got some really interesting caves with Taino carvings. So some people got together and formed a local tourist association so they could get organised to attract visitors so that those assets benefit the whole community. They weren’t waiting for the tourism minister to give them their blessing or for an NGO to come and do some capacity building, they just went ahead and set it up themselves. I was thrilled to be able to write about them in the new guidebook.

[Photo Credit: All photos by Paul Clammer, unless otherwise noted.]

CLICK HERE TO VISIT PAUL CLAMMER’S WEBSITE! CLICK HERE TO PRE-ORDER HIS HAITI TRAVEL GUIDE!

The man known as Haiti Travel Guy ranks as one of the biggest Haiti Tourism enthusiasts on social media and elsewhere. Also known as Terry Curtis, the travel adventurer and tourism consultant is the founder of Haiti tourism firm Haiti Travel Adventures. Many a blan who write about Haiti have to walk on eggshells, and watch their tongue lest they should get their #TeamHaiti card snatched, and get dragged by their edges by #TeamHaiti. Not Haiti Travel Guy. He tweets about the beauty of Haiti, and its tourism treasures, but he doesn’t present tropical glitter without delivering some hard truths. Hard truths that come in the form of comments about bad roads, occasional bad customer service, and the like.

Through his tweets and his website, many an adventurous traveler are finding Haiti, or rediscovering it. He promotes Haiti like he’s part of a secret department in Haiti’s Department of Tourism.

Kreyolicious: You write positively of Haiti, and with sweet humor, but you definitely don’t sugarcoat matters with cherry on top. Matter a fact, you’re pretty blunt at times. Sometimes #TeamHaiti and Haitian Twitter don’t like to hear or read ugly truths about Haiti to be highlighted by a blan. Why do you think you’ve never had your lari card, your Team Haiti pass card revoked?
Every week I go to the Haitian Post Office but my card never showed up in the mail. [Smiles] You know, I love to promote Haiti as I travel. But sometimes, you have to laugh at the differences in cultures to make a point. We have to be able to laugh at ourselves in this world. We just need to be respectful. As much as I will promote Haiti, it comes with a great responsibility to not paint a picture that will only disappoint or get someone in trouble. Haiti is not the Virgin Islands. Being in denial is not change. Being honest about the challenges and differences is to let others know this place is just not for everyone. Yet. This is probably why I’ve never been approached by Haiti tourism officials. [Smiles]

Kreyolicious: We went from hearing about Port-au-Prince a lot. A whole lot…to hearing about other cities too. What do you feel is Haiti’s most underrated city?
Au Cayes is a nice quiet little town by the beach. It’s the distance I think that keeps most from making it a destination. But with a few more hotels, there’s no reason it couldn’t be like a Jacmel.

Above: Haiti Travel Guy visits a fishing coast in Gonaives.

Kreyolicious: I remember reading your review of this hotel in Haiti called Le Perroquet, written a while back, and then seeing tweets about a fire there a few months ago. What’s your reaction when something like that happens…when things seem to be upward bound, and then, and then tragedy.
This was an unfortunate fire. A lot of history there. I remember when it was the Cubana and then the Le Perroquet. It was one of the only decent little hotels right in Petionville for about $60 a night. It was also one of Haiti’s first and oldest English Pubs. There was a fabulous antique wooden bar in there. Sad to see all this destroyed.

Above: A beach in the northern part of Haiti. Photo Credit: Haiti Travel Guy

Kreyolicious: Have you ever thought of doing a travel guide? Something alongside The Haiti Travel Guy’s Guide To Haiti and Things To Do There or 1001 Fun Things to Do While in Haiti.
Great idea. But I’d need a writer. [Smiles] Honestly, I left that up to professionals like Paul Clammer. His latest guide is a very nice tool for those visiting.

Kreyolicious: What’s next for HTG?
As Haiti elects a new president and the next chapter of government takes shape, I am hoping the progress that started will continue. Government stability, security and infrastructure are the keys to building a successful tourism industry. If and when this happens, I am just blessed to be along for the ride.

This concludes Part II of the interview with Haiti Travel Guy. Did you miss PART I? Click here! Be sure to follow Haiti Travel Guy on TWITTER and INSTAGRAM. And don’t forget to visit his website to get more information about booking him for your next visit:—HAITI TRAVEL ADVENTURES!

One of the most influential figures in the Haiti tourism game isn’t Haitian born, but a native of Minnesota name Terry Curtis, better known by the social media handle Haiti Travel Guy. Having visited the country shortly after the 2010 earthquake, the travel consultant has seen the country’s transition from post-earthquake territory to the reconstruction phase. Seeing the country’s tourism potential, he started Haiti Travel Adventures, a Haiti tourism and travel consulting venture.

Above: Haiti Travel Guy (right) explores the city of Gonaives! A visit to a furniture maker in that city.
Kreyolicious: What’s new with Haiti Travel Guy and tour tour company Haiti Travel Adventures?
I can’t believe its been six years since I first stepped foot into Haiti. In those six years, I’ve seen a lot of change. The first two, three years, there was a lot of growth in new hotels, restaurants and businesses in the central business district of Port-Au-Prince and Petionville. Over the past couple of years, that’s slowed down with fewer and fewer NGO’s and UN on the ground. Prices across the segments have come down. Rent is cheaper. The dollar is higher and demand is down. But for some, that’s not all good. Haiti continues to remain in a stage of “development” along with being unstable and unpredictable. But for some instability equals cash. Just not tourism cash. Tourism travel is still limited to those a little more adventurous. Many are visiting the neighboring Dominican Republic, and want to take the bus over for a day or two to see the country. Having started my efforts in 2010 a lot of people doing research will find me online. I get two to three calls a week from someone looking for more information regarding traveling to Haiti. Typically solo adventure travelers, photographers, artists and diaspora.

Above: It’s jazz night in Petionville. Photo Credit: Haiti Travel Guy

Kreyolicious: Have you ever been approached by Haiti tourism officials for collaborations?
No. But I don’t really offer group tours as much as I provided one-on-one services. I’ve helped small groups, but its just not my thing. It’s not how I ever wanted to travel and group tours is just not something everyone is looking for. When I travel, I spend time building social equity with neighborhoods, families and people. Once established, I enjoy the things like being invited into a small home for a traditional Haitian meal or having a beer at a small establishment deep inside a bidonville [inner-city]. These are things that are difficult to do with a group of people, and in most cases, I am only with one or two other travelers seeking that sort of access to the culture. In the past few years there have been some great collaborations in organized tour companies offering group tours a few times a year. Belle Vue and My Haiti Travels are two that have been successful and that I’ve recommended to most.

For me, this mission to show people a different Haiti has become more of a passion than a business mission. Often times, I find myself consulting with folks on travel plans, finding hotels and places to visit. I’ve helped people relocate to Haiti to start businesses and diaspora looking to return and retire. Still today, most of the folks who contact me are from countries other than the United States. Most inquiries from the U.S. are from Haitian diaspora who left Haiti as a child and are now interested in returning and for some reason seem to trust a crazy blan to help them. [Smiles] The most rewarding part for me is to be traveling back to Haiti and someone on the plane will recognize me and say something like “hey you helped me visit Haiti five years ago and now we visit all the time”. For me, that’s how Haiti is going to change. People visiting and investing their time and money.

Above: Salt flats in Gonaives. Photo Credit: Haiti Travel Guy

Kreyolicious: What are some tourism improvements you’ve seen since you’ve been in Haiti?
If any…As I mentioned, the hotels have been a big improvement. After the big ones came, all the small family-owned boutique hotels that offer a great experience. Roads have been built and improvements to others are taking place. But the single biggest need from the government is infrastructure. You have to build it—and maintain it.

Kreyolicious: What’s your favorite spot in Haiti?
I would have to say Cap Haitien.

Above: A pile of fresh seafood from Haiti’s waters! Photo Credit: Haiti Travel Guy

Kreyolicious: Why?
It’s probably my first choice now for retirement. Excellent little city with sidewalks, green space, beaches, businesses and restaurants without all the hassle of Port Au Prince and Petionville. They have their own airport, real taxis, and the people there just seem to be more relaxed.

This concludes Part I of the interview with Haiti Travel Guy. While you wait for Part II, be sure to follow Haiti Travel Guy on TWITTER and INSTAGRAM. And don’t forget to visit his website and get information on how to book him for you next vacation to Haiti: —HERE!